Automotive New Balance

Contains about automotive information

The Basic Function And Classification Of The Auto Diagnostic Tools

The inspection to the automotive fault is largely depend on the auto diagnostic tools such as the x431 diagun and GM MDI which have function of read the car trouble codes, clear trouble code and data stream, component testing, maintenance light reset, read the computer version, basic settings and matching adjustment. Some automotive fault diagnostic computer such as the gm tech2 and autocom cdp could also provide value-added services such as the long-distance diagnosis for car fault, vehicle maintenance data, fault code table, management of customer files, business functions and so on. From these descriptions, we could find that the manufacture for the auto diagnostic tools such as the GO2OBD which is a brand for reliable auto maintenance devices in China for 5 years has paid more attention to the function varieties of the auto diagnostic tools such as the autel maxiscan and tacho pro.

The knowledge from the website http://www.go2obd.com/ would teach us that there are two main types of automotive fault diagnostic computer and automobile link mode which are wired and wireless. The Wired type is that the people connect the diagnostic computer and automotive diagnostic seat by the diagnostic connector and link lines. The wireless type has eliminating the need for the middle of the link line. The wireless transmitter device connected to the diagnostic socket location and the diagnostic computer connect to receive the device. As we all know, the usual wireless device is the Bluetooth device.

According to the manufacturer’s configuration and measurement models, the automotive fault diagnostic computer such as the carprog and bmw icom could be divided into three types which are dedicated, comprehensive and original instrument. The dedicated automotive fault diagnostic computer only work for the set model. The original diagnostic computer can only operate for their own models from the automobile factory. The majority of the repairers in the repairing market use the integrated automotive fault diagnostic computer such as the GO2OBD and x431. And this kind of testing equipment is generally produced by the professional fault diagnosis computer enterprise.

In order to pass the Automotive Diagnosis seat to have communication with car ECU host computer, automotive fault diagnostic computer such as the and x431 diagun must follow the relevant standards and protocols such as OBD. From the information of the website of GO2OBD, we could know more about that the OBD is the most traditional and efficiency standard and system for the auto diagnostic tools such as the GO2OBD and x431 diagun. Most of the auto diagnostic tools in our market today are all based on the OBD system and standard.

Brief About Automotive Fault Codes

All cars and light trucks built for sale in the United States after 1996 are required to be OBD-II compliant. The European Union adopted (directive 98/69/EC) a similar law in 2001 for gasoline powered vehicles, and in 2003 for cars with diesel engines.
OBD II mandates a standard scan tool (SAE J 1978) with a single standard plug for all vehicles manufactured in U.S.A.
The Universal interface (SAE J 2201) requirements for Scan Tool (SAE J 1978), Data Communication Network Interface (SAE J 1850), (SAE J 1850), Interface connector (SAE J 1962) requirements, Test Modes (SAE J 1979), and Diagnostic Trouble codes (SAE J 2012), and Enhanced test modes (SAE J 2190), are described in detail in the standard. General characteristics, electrical and mechanical characteristics are also described in the HS-3000 standard. EPA regulation is that SAE J 1978 must have the capability to perform bi-directional diagnostic control. Vehicle manufacturers will use manufacturer specific messages to perform these functions, and later use SAE J 2205, (Expanded Scan Tool protocol) to enable these functions with SAE J 1978 automotive Scan tool.

SAE J2012 (Diagnostic Trouble Codes1) defines a set of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) where industry uniformity has been achieved.
The medium of communication is the serial data link described in SAE J 1850.
OBD II mandates that all trouble codes are logged when they are set and are retrieved by auto diagnostic scanner when commanded. And the diagnostic data must be made available when requested by the auto diagnostic scan tool. So the auto diagnostic scan Tool is to collect diagnostic messages from the vehicle. Which consists:
Analog inputs and outputs
Digital inputs and outputs
System status information
Calculated values

Important Note:
Only one Code must be stored in OBD II for each fault detected.
DTCs consist of an alpha character followed by four characters.
Pxxxx is reserved for powertrain DTCs
Bxxxx is reserved for body DTCs
Cxxxx is reserved for chassis DTCs
Uxxxx is reserved for network DTCs (UART the body electronics like door and roof control, air conditioning, and lightning, as well as for the entertainment control).

The second character designates whether the DTCs and a generic SAE DTC or a manufacturer specific DTC.
Powertrain codes
P0xxx – Generic
P1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
P2xxx – Generic
P30xx-P33xx – Manufacturer-specific
P34xx-P39xx Generic
Body codes
B0xxx – Generic
B1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
B2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
B3xxx – Generic
Chassis codes
C0xxx – Generic
C1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
C2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
C3xxx – Generic
Network Communication codes
U0xxx Generic
U1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
U2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
U3xxx Generic

The remaining characters designate the system associated with the fault. The characters are hex and can range from 0 F.
The third digit defines the specific system or sub-system within the car where the problem is located:
1.Fuel and Air Metering
2.Fuel and Air Metering (injector circuit malfunction only)
3.Ignition System or Misfire
4.Auxiliary Emission Control System
5.Vehicle Speed Control and Idle Control System
6.Computer Output Circuits
7.Transmissions
8.Transmissions
9.Control Modules, input and output signals

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How to install throw over saddlebags on your motorcycle

This article specifically for Harley Davidson Sportster motorcycles it also applies other motorcycles

We sell a great line of quality bargain priced motorcycle saddlebags in various styles that fit a huge number bikes. About once a day I get an email asking about fitting the bags on a specific bike.

Before we start let’s make sure they will fit:

Let’s assume you are interested in some of my great leather throw-overs that measure: 14″ WIDE X 7″ THICK X 11″ TALL

This means that each bag is 14 inches long (measured horizontally), seven inches thick and 11 inches tall (measured vertically)

First Measure from the top of your pipes or chain (if the chain is unguarded), whichever is higher, to the bottom of your seat. You need 12 inches, if the dimension is any less don’t buy the bags they are too tall. Don’t worry about the shocks. Throw overs go over the shocks.

INSTALLING YOUR SADDLEBAGS

1. Remove your seat. Most Sportster motorcycle seats are removed by unscrewing the Philips head screw located at the rear of the seat. Slide the seat forward while lifting up slightly to detach the keyhole bracket from the seat post. Then slide the seat to the rear to detach the seat tongue from the rear tank bracket. The process is the same for solo and two-up seats.

2. The yoke is the part of the bags that fits under the seat. Unlace the yoke, position both bags in the location you want them to stay. Overlap one side of the yoke over the other. Using a marker, mark where the yoke lays over any obstructing hardware and the outline of outer edge of the upper yoke where it overlaps the lower wing of the yoke. Note: The saddlebags typically lay over the shocks. Some saddlebags are supplied with an additional yoke extender to be used with extra -wide bikes. This is typically not needed.

3. Lay the bags out flat, place the yoke over a piece of wood, telephone book or something similar. Line the marks up that you made in step 2. The existing holes work for the vast majority of motorcycles.

If the holes don’t line up, use an awl, ice pick or drill and make about six holes through both pieces of the yoke. Use the piece of leather strip to lace them together.

NOTE: On most motorcycles it is not necessary to make new holes. Some combination of the existing holes should fit.

4. Place the saddlebags on your bike. Reinstall the seat. Use the lower tie downs to secure the bottom of the bags.

5. Give your bike a final safety check. Make sure the seat and saddlebags are secure and the bags cannot come in contact with your wheel, spokes, belt or chain.

As always don’t stab, slice, fold, spindle or mutilate yourself while using sharp instruments!

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Major Automotive Service Technician Tools Found In Every Garage

When embarking on an auto career, the first things you learn are the ins-and-outs of using the most popular industry-standard tools. In addition to these, however, there are other major tools not usually found in the garage of the hobbyist, but are absolute necessities for the automotive service technician. These tools are indispensable to building up your business from the ground-up, or becoming a valued member of a pre-existing team.

Tools You Can’t Do Without

Early in your auto career, you’ll come across the full range of electrical issues with the parts of a vehicle. As such, a voltmeter is an essential piece of diagnostic equipment, which drastically cuts down the amount of time you would otherwise spend trying to find shorted wires and faulty connections. Often sold together, a multi-meter for the checking of amperages is just as important.

Because a busy automotive service technician can easily encounter tens-of-thousands of bolts, screws and holes in a short period of time, you’ll find air-powered ratchets, ball drivers and power drills to be merciful instruments of construction and disassembly. They save your joints from inflammation and injury and allow you to easily tighten and loosen disagreeable bolts and screws.

For big jobs that involve razing down the thick metal of a car, cutting and making adjustments are easily handled by this next popular tool of the automotive service technician: the plasma cutter. Reaching temperatures hot enough to ionize the surrounding air, this is essentially the perfect knife and slices through hardware like butter. The plasma cutter is an indispensable welding tool that will serve you well in your auto career.

A work light is an absolute must. Even during the brightest day, there are nooks and crannies in the back of the garage where darkness dominates, and it is crucial that you see what you’re doing. Work lights come in super-bright halogens and low-energy LEDs, where the lack of an extension cord and power adapter proves handy.

Extensions and swivels are mechanical tools that allow you to reach and manipulate hard-to-reach bolts, which are either deeply-embedded in some corner of the car, or surrounding by too many other machine parts at an awkward angle.

Jacks and jack stands are instruments of dual-importance, so much so that they’re sold as the feature of many starter packages for the beginning auto mechanic. The jack is for removing car wheels safely, by allowing you to slide underneath the multiple-ton vehicle to inspect the underbelly.

These represent just slightly more than a handful of the essential tools you’ll encounter in auto careers, and serve as the bare minimum for a serious mechanic. Vehicles develop all kinds of problems through wear-and-tear, and these tools help you effectively apply your knowledge in finding solutions for satisfied customers as an automotive service technician.

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Diy Battery Desulfator For At Home Reconditioning

A DIY battery desulfator is a device that rejuvenates batteries in order for them to perform like brand new. Here’s a scenario for you: Your typical car battery’s life span is about two to four years. After that, it eventually dies – sometimes while you’re running pretty late to work or sometimes on a family cross country trip or sometimes just at home when you’re about to start the car up. Regardless of when or where it conks out, it’s dead and the situation renders your car useless. So, you haul the off to the recycler’s and spend some cash for a new one so that you can use the car.

But what if you could actually recondition the battery and make it work like brand new before it died out? The good thing is – you can! Most car batteries (and batteries for other machines and devices) can be reconditioned or refurbished in order to make it work like brand new and prolong its life expectancy.

What Causes The Batteries To Deteriorate, Anyway?
Over time, the inside of the battery starts to undergo a process called sulfation, where the lead plates (the part of the battery that produces the electric charges) become coated with sulfate. The coat creates an insulation on the lead plates, which causes then to produce a lower voltage charge. Eventually, the coating becomes so thick that the battery can no longer hold any charge. When this occurs, the battery is considered ‘dead.’ However, the reconditioning process simply de-sulfates the battery in order for the sulfate build-up to break down. This clears up the lead plates, allowing the battery to produce more charge, allowing it to work normally like it usually does.

Can DIY Battery Reconditioning Be Done?
Battery reconditioning can be done at your local automotive service shop – or you can do it yourself. All you need is a desulfator or Nanopulser. This device works by emitting high voltage pulses right into the battery. The pulses force the sulfate crystals to break down and dissolve, rendering the ‘bad’ or ‘dead’ batteries useful or almost like brand new.

Where Can I Get A Battery Desulfator?
Battery desulfators can be purchased online or from local vendors – or you can have someone make it for you. Some desulfator devices come with chargers, and can range anywhere from $25 to $100. Or, you can choose to make your own DIY Battery Desulfator from scratch. Making one is simply easy and can be created using a number of items that are available from hardware and electrical stores near you.

A good guide should provide a proper work plan and should give you a diagram to follow in making your own battery desulfator. Once you have the device on hand, try practicing on spare batteries or ‘bad batteries’ that you may be able to purchase at a cheap price.

It’s a good idea to use the desulfator at home as a preventative measure. Meaning, battery reconditioning should be done when the battery is still alive, as a preventive measure – as a last minute resuscitation measure once the battery dies.

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